About
Our Crested Gecko care sheet has all the expert guidance you need to ensure you can effectively look after your crested gecko.
The Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) is one of the most popular reptiles kept in captivity. They are relatively easy to care for, have a calm temperament, and remain relatively small (approx. 20cm).
Once thought to be extinct, they were rediscovered in 1994 in New Caledonia. A small group was taken into captivity to study, and it is from this group that all captive-bred crested geckos originate. Their placid nature, manageable size, ease of care, and huge variety of colours and patterns have made them extremely popular with hobbyists, collectors and breeders.
They can live for up to 20 years in captivity, so an understanding of their long-term needs is important before deciding to own one.
Housing
Crested geckos are best kept in a terrarium that is taller than it is wide, as they are natural climbers. A 45 × 45 × 60cm glass terrarium is the most popular size, providing suitable height, ventilation and humidity.
Care should be taken to ensure glass terrariums are not placed in direct sunlight, or cold or draughty areas, as they do not offer the same insulation as a wooden vivarium.
At Internet Reptile, we recommend crested geckos are sold when they are around 8g. At this size they are strong enough to move straight into their adult-sized home, benefiting from correct temperature gradients and UV access.
Beginners are often advised to start with smaller enclosures for baby geckos, but this is usually unnecessary. In the wild they have unlimited space, and the benefits of larger enclosures apply regardless of age. The challenge is simply monitoring feeding and growth, so if this is a concern, purchasing an animal that is already well-established is a better option.
Company
Crested geckos prefer to live alone, only encountering other geckos in short periods during the breeding season. Housing them together can cause stress, and even geckos that have previously tolerated one another may suddenly fight, resulting in injury or death.
If you choose to keep more than one gecko together, provide plenty of hiding places and never house males together. Monitor closely for signs of dominance or aggression, and always have a backup enclosure available.
Heating
Crested geckos should have a warm area of around 26–28°C. The rest of the enclosure should sit between 20–24°C, creating a suitable thermogradient. Night-time temperatures should not fall below 18°C.
The most common heating method is a high-powered heat mat fixed to the outside of the glass and controlled with a thermostat, monitored using a digital thermometer. While simple and effective, heat mats contribute little to ambient air temperature, so this must be monitored.
The increasingly popular Arcadia Deep Heat Projector provides deep, infrared-B heating from above. This helps warm decor (which re-radiates heat) and reduces surface-burn risks associated with heat mats.
Lighting
A UV Index (UVI) of 1–2, along with fully shaded areas, ensures your gecko can access UVB when needed. In most enclosures an Arcadia Shade Dweller ProT5 placed on top of the mesh will achieve this. Provide plenty of branches and foliage to allow natural movement in and out of UV areas.
In larger terrariums, a reflected Arcadia 6% T8 tube provides similar output. A 6% T5 or ProT5 kit offers even better lighting but should be paired with increased shade and distance.
Keep lights on for 12–14 hours per day and off at night.
Humidity
Crested geckos thrive with relative humidity of around 40–50%, with regular boosts to approximately 70% once or twice a day. A bioactive setup naturally assists in maintaining stable humidity levels. Light daily spraying helps achieve temporary humidity boosts.
A simple hygrometer can help monitor humidity but in most homes, correct temperatures, avoiding draughts, and spraying as advised will meet their needs.
A higher humidity hide (wet box) with damp sphagnum moss should always be available to help shed skin fully and prevent loss of toes or tail tips from retained shed.
Decoration
Decoration is essential for security and enrichment. Add multiple hiding areas in different locations, supported by plants and branches.
Try to cover exposed glass panels with cork, leaves or climbing structures to prevent “floppy tail syndrome,” caused by geckos resting frequently on vertical smooth surfaces.
A bioactive enclosure is highly recommended. Live plants create a naturalistic, enriching environment and help stabilise humidity.
Top Tip: Hang a coconut hide from the roof of the terrarium to create an ideal elevated hiding space. Adding moss can convert it into an excellent wet hide.
Food
Crested geckos eat both fruit-based diets and insects. Several excellent complete diets are available and can be fed in small bowls placed where the geckos naturally explore at night.
Although complete diets contain vitamins and minerals, they should not be fed exclusively. Offering a range of gut-loaded live insects helps promote natural feeding behaviours and better development.
Our geckos are fed:
Other insects such as silkworms, waxworms, and roaches may be offered as occasional treats.
Remember: The width of any livefood insect should never exceed the distance between the gecko's eyes.
Supplements
All live insects should be gut-loaded and dusted with a suitable supplement. Our routine, adapted from Arcadia Reptile, is:
- Feed 1: Arcadia EarthPro-A
- Feeds 2 & 3: Arcadia Calcium with Magnesium
- Feed 4: Arcadia EarthPro-A
- Feeds 5 & 6: Arcadia Calcium with Magnesium
- Feed 7: Full spectrum vitamin with D3
With good quality UV lighting, synthetic vitamin D3 plays a reduced role. We use a D3 supplement roughly every eight feeds as a backup. If your UV lighting is low output — or you use none — the vitamin routine must be adjusted accordingly.
Water
Fresh drinking water should always be available and changed daily. When spraying the enclosure, ensure leaves (real or artificial) collect droplets, as geckos will drink from these.
Cleaning and Hygiene
Spot-clean daily and perform a full clean every 4–6 weeks, replacing substrate and disinfecting decorations where safe. Bioactive setups with a clean-up crew require less intensive cleaning but glass, leaves and decor should still be cleaned regularly.
Reptiles can carry bacteria (including salmonella), worms or parasites. Always wash hands before and after handling or cleaning.
It is wise to perform an annual faecal check, or sooner if you notice runny stools. See https://www.palsvetlab.co.uk for more information.
Your responsibilities
Our crested gecko care sheet provides a general overview of common husbandry questions. Multiple methods can achieve excellent results, and this guide should be used alongside additional research, professional advice and emerging husbandry practices.
- Freedom from hunger or thirst — fresh water and a suitable diet
- Freedom from discomfort — appropriate housing and resting areas
- Freedom from pain, injury or disease — prevention or rapid diagnosis and treatment
- Freedom to express (most) normal behaviour — adequate space and environmental enrichment
- Freedom from fear and distress — conditions that avoid mental suffering
Disclaimer: This care sheet is provided as a general guide based on our experience. Advice may vary between keepers, and best practices can evolve as new research and products become available. Always carry out your own research and consult professional guidance where needed. We will endeavour to keep this information up to date as husbandry knowledge develops.
If you have other reptiles as pets, be sure to check out our other care sheets, including Bearded Dragon, Leopard Gecko, Hognose Snake, Giant African Land Snail, Hermann's Tortoise & Corn Snake
